The French have a reputation for being rude and zealously
protective of their beautiful language, often refusing to speak
English to tourists even if they're able. (I had this experience
with an SFR telecom operator who apparently had been instructed NOT
to speak English to me.) No matter where I am in the world I try not to jump
straight to cliche cultural conclusions, prefering to look for
different patterns and trends and come up with my own.
What I can tell you for sure is that the reception I get from
the French is very different to how I was received in Ireland
and Scotland, where people literally invited me in
off the street for a cup of tea. In the UK and Ireland most people
I met were curious about what I was doing, in France most of them
are not. I should point out that my French is very basic,
just enough to get me by but most of the snobs I've had have
happened before we get to the talking part, so it can't just be a
language barrier.
Warching the All Blacks in Paris I met Claire,
(above) an ex-pat Kiwi who shared her theory based on 16 years of
living in Paris. She thinks the French are the polar opposite of
New Zealanders. Your average Kiwi is super friendly and will act
like your best friend instantly but over time that might start to
fade as you get to know each other. Whereas the French don't like
you at all to start with but if you persevere and prove yourself
over time they will embrace you as a friend forever. Because of the
nature of my trip I don't have time to build long-term
relationships which presents quite a challenge for me. Do you
travel for people or for places? I'm very much a
people person so the lack of connection I was feeling hit me hard -
ending in tears on a couple of occasions. Sob sob!
Another French man I met explained that when he goes to the pub
to meet his friends, that's why he's there - to meet his friends,
not to talk to strangers. This insular theory might explain why
only a handful of people have initiated a conversation with me so
far, perhaps preferring to live in their own fromage flavoured
bubble?
But then there's the odd person who doesn't fit the mold. Like a
pastry chef I had an animated two minute discussion with yesterday
who was actually interested in why I was cycling around the world
on a bicycle. Maybe it was the French who invented the tough love concept? After two weeks of very
little kindness, one pastry chef offers me a smile and a few kind
words and I end up wagging my tail like a puppy.
There's also the possibility that it's not the French at all,
it's me. In Scotland I cycled into each town as Indiana June, the
intrepid adventurer but in France I roll in, trying to remember
which side of the road to cycle on and avoiding eye contact just in
case someone says something I don't understand. I'm completely
intimidated like a meek little mouse and unless your name is Jerry, who wants to talk to a mouse?
Every day I'm in France my confidence grows and I find myself
meeting the stares of the people I encounter. Just now, a couple of
old woman were chatting away to each other, laughing at my cycle
picnic so instead of getting embarrassed I offered them both a plum
- an unexpected gesture on my part but it made them laugh and
lightened the mood.
The French don't suffer softies, they respect confidence and the
more I can hold my head up and get on with it the better reception
I seem to receive. If you don't try, they definitely won't try,
it's that simple. But if you can swallow your pride and make the
first move you might be lucky enough to see a tough exterior soften
before your eyes. Well that's my thoughts on it anyway… and if all
else fails Italy and Spain aren't too far away. What do you think?
Are the French as rude as some people would have you believe? Or
are the millions of tourists that invade their country the ones to
blame?
These observations are based on personal experiences I've
had during about 6 weeks (total) that I've spent in different
provinces of France, eating far too many crossiants over the past
few years.