Distance covered: 32km
Rainbows spotted: 2
Times I was 'found' playing hide and seek:
4
Number of artists that have had residence in
Ballinskelligs: 750
Spoonfuls of powdered potato soup swallowed:
2
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After a week of rain, today the sun beamed from dawn until dusk
and lifted the spirits of all the soggy campers. The winds were
still too blustery to head out to Skelligs so I arranged to meet
Kirsten, a couchsurfer from the small fishing town Ballinskelligs.
We met at the weekly Sunday farmers market and I was inspired
by her story of how she gave up many of her material possessions
for a simpler but richer life in this little village.
During the summer season Ballinskelligs swells with
holiday-makers all hoping to catch a few illusive sun rays and
waves at the beach. (They even have a surf life saving club here.)
The market was full of interesting locally produced gastro and
artistic delights. I tasted my first pickled sea spaghetti and was
informed that seaweed used to be a big part of the old-Irish diet
in these parts. Next I met two of the sweetest Irish girls with
their own jewellery stall. They plait bracelets from embroidery
thread and I bought one in Indiana June black and yellow for 60
cents.
I left the bike at the market and Kristen drove us up to the end
of the peninsula and we hiked up to Bolus Head. It's hard to describe the view but
every photo I took looked like it belonged on a postcard. The
majestic views extended out to the rolling Atlantic (Hi America!)
and the Blasket Islands unfolded before our eyes. The rolling Kerry
hills are full of shy sheep which we tried unsuccessfully to pet.
You can see the skelligs from here and also the tightknit family of
Calf, Cow and Bull Island.
On our way back to Kirsten's house we passed several restored
homes, abandoned during the famine, that are now the residences of
international artists who come to Ballinskelligs. It's part of an
art project called Cill Rialaig, set up in 1991 by Noelle
Campbell Sharp. They get thousands of applications from creative
people all over the world and it has become custom for each
artist to leave behind something they have produced during their
stay. The work is sold a Siopa Chill Rialaig, a nearby art gallery
which helps fund the project.
Kirsten cooked us a delicious meal of chicken and vegetables
before I cycled back to Cahersiveen with rainbows guiding my way.
My sleeping mattress seems to have sprung a leak so much to the
amusement of fellow campers I tracked down the hole, fixed it and
quite proud of myself hit the inflatable hay. By 2am I was lying
flat on the ground so will have to have another crack at it
today.